Women know that the solution for getting beautiful hair color results and 100% gray coverage is to pay extra special attention to what you do before, during, and after the hair color process.
Our tips will give you healthy, beautiful results and 100% gray coverage on 90 to 95% of cases. The last 5% to 10% of your clients are usually clients with hair loss and hair damage issues that you need to fix. Here is a checklist of best practices that we have found work best from stylists around the world regardless of water condition, weather, or location.
1. Proper Preparation
Think about when you paint a wall in your house or paint a picture on a canvas. If you use a primer first, your paint will be more vibrant and true to what you are looking to produce. It is the same with hair color. But your preparation is not a primer per say. It is making sure the hair is clean and free of build-up from unwanted chemicals, minerals, or leftover hair products. Use a hair purifier, not a clarifier. The difference is that there are no solvents or sulfates, and because of the gentle ingredients, it will not pull any color or damage or irritate the hair scalp before the color service. It works like a magnet to attach itself to the build-up and then it is washed right out of the hair leaving a clean and primed canvas for your hair color service.
Can I apply color to wet hair?
Yes, you can apply color to towel dried hair. Think about it like a sponge. A damp sponge can pick up a spill faster than a dry sponge. In the same way, towel-dried hair will take color better.
2. Proper Formulation
Make sure you are using the right color and developer choices to achieve the results you are looking for. With resistant gray coverage, using a double zero will be a good starting point. You can add other tones to the double zero if you would like a warmer or cooler result. I like chocolate shades as they are very popular for this purpose.
What about reds?
When you want red but it has a lot of gray, you need to add gold (.3) to your formula. The gold helps cover the plain white hair and gets you complete coverage.
Pick the right developer
Sometimes you need to vary your developer choice based on the hair texture or what exactly you are trying to accomplish. Remember to keep your formula updated and make sure that you keep track of what makes their formulations better. For example, in Hawaii, 20 volumes will not cover the course Hawaiian and Japanese hair. Hawaiian stylists use 25 or 30 volumes to get the best coverage. Remember, if you go higher in developer choice, you should drop down in color choice by a half level to 1 level to get both worlds’ best. The developer’s power to help open the compact cuticle and the lower color choice’s power to bring you the perfect coverage and depth you are looking for. This also works in reverse. Many stylists use 15 volume on their gray coverage clients in the midwest because the fine hair is easier to cover.
3. Proper Application
It’s that easy. Using thin partings lets you make sure that you actually cover the gray when applying your color. Also, be careful to avoid brushing off-color as you continue to work the same section with your brush. Make sure you apply very well in a thin section, and then move on to the next area.
4. Proper Saturation
Don’t worry about using too much more than average, and if you do use a little more and your coverage is better, then maybe you were not using enough in the first place.
5. Proper Timing
I recommend 45 minutes processing. You can process at room temperature. If you are looking for more lift or are working hard to cover gray hair, you can use low heat during the first 15 minutes of the processing time. This will not speed up the color process. It will only help open the cuticle giving your color more power to work. The last 30 minutes should be processed at room temperature.
6. Proper Rinsing
Make sure you wash the color out properly. I recommend you wash out with warm water and that you emulsify. The color will begin to produce a small lather as you emulsify it out of the hair. Then use warm water to rinse the color completely out of the hair. You then shampoo and condition as you usually would do.
If, for some reason, when you go to dry the hair, it does not look vibrant, feel soft, or look shiny, it means there is still color residue on the hair. Please return to the bowl and wash it out again. Follow these 6 easy steps, and you will love your color results every single time, even on the most difficult hair. Also, I recommend using no-ammonia and PPD-free hair colors. You know why!